A collar isn't just a finishing detail — it's the part of a shirt closest to your face, and the shape of it changes how the whole shirt reads. The differences between the main collar types are small in centimetres but large in effect. Here's what each one is doing.
Point collar
The point collar has a narrow spread, usually somewhere between 60 and 75 degrees between the two points. It's the most traditional cut, and the most forgiving — it works with or without a tie, sits close to the neck, and doesn't compete with a jacket lapel. If you only own one collar shape, this is the one that goes everywhere.
Spread collar
A spread collar opens the angle between the points, sometimes as wide as 180 degrees for a full cutaway. The extra width gives a tie knot more room to sit properly and opens up the face — which is why it photographs well and is the usual choice for anyone in front of a camera often. Worn open, without a tie, a wide spread can look undone rather than relaxed, so it rewards a bit more formality.
Button-down collar
Originally a polo player's fix for a collar flapping in the wind, the button-down has two small buttons anchoring the points to the body of the shirt. It sits with a slight, permanent roll, which is what gives it its casual character. It's the one collar type that generally isn't paired with a tie in a formal setting — the buttons and the roll both work against a crisp, flat line.
Club collar
Rounded rather than pointed, the club collar (sometimes called a round or Eton collar) is the least common of the four and the most distinct — it has a schoolboy, slightly retro character that either suits an outfit or doesn't. It's worth having one, not many.
How to choose
- For everyday wear, with or without a tie — a point collar
- For anything camera-facing, or a heavier tie knot — a spread collar
- For weekends, worn open, no tie — a button-down
- For one shirt with real character — a club collar
None of these are load-bearing decisions. The collar you'll wear most is the one that matches how often you wear a tie, not the one that looks most interesting on a rack — which is exactly why we keep point and spread as the two core cuts across every fabric we offer.
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